AS the plane banked through the thick clouds before its descent, I craned my neck to get a good view below. My aisle seat only favored me with the ripple of a cloud and glimpses of the ocean. My co-passengers, however, started clicking their cameras, capturing what I could only imagine as the picturesque scene below. I had to content myself by peering at the LCD screen of some guy’s camera in front of me.
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Batanes, even from high above, elicits that kind of exhilaration, especially from those who had never set foot on the islands.

Equipped with windbreakers, motion sickness pills and an incredible sense of excitement, I, together with a couple of writers, a bunch of travel bloggers, photographers and some executives from Epson and Geiser-Maclang Public Relations, flew some 650 kilometers from Manila to Basco, Batanes, for the launch of the new Epson printers.

Instead of the usual band and leis, it was a chilly wind that greeted us, embracing us to the core. That and a scenic view of Mt. Iraya officially welcomed us to Basco, the capital of Batanes. In between bracing myself and breathing in the icy cold air, I was hoping the light jackets I opted to bring were enough to keep me toasty for the next three days.

After freshening up at the Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant where we were billeted, we headed out to explore Basco. Th e town has all the amenities of a municipality, only theirs is more picture-perfect and seemingly in order. With splashes of color perfectly complementing the ash-colored stones that made up most of the houses, Basco’s charm lies in the warmth and hospitality of the people and its century-old structures like that of Sto. Domingo Cathedral.

Breathtaking moments

The first of many breathtaking moments came, however, when we reached the famous Rolling Hills. It was rolling all right, and simply magnificent. The harsh winds could not deflect from the beauty of sprawling plateaus surrounded by scenic views of the ocean on one side and lush green hills on the other. Catching sight of a few goats and cows in the distance, one could almost hear the strains of “The Sound of Music” in the background.

Standing so high up in those hills, gazing at nature’s beauty at its most rugged and uncorrupted, was just so amazing, mere words fail to describe it.

The lighthouse at the Naidi hill facing the splendid view of the China Sea was even more beautiful up close. But what caught my attention was the old cluster of buildings that, according to our driver, used to be U.S. Navy headquarters and is now a cafeteria due to open this year. Although it might sound like heaven to weary and hungry tourists, I couldn’t
help but think of what it would eventually do to the charms of the lighthouse.

Marlboro Country is another must-see in Batanes. It isn’t called such for nothing. The place is steeped in rustic charm enough to make you dream of cowboys and a bucolic way of life. After we had our fi ll of Batanes for the day, we headed back to the lodge to test the new Epson printers, which conquered even non-techies like me.

A scary ride

The next day, we prepared to take a 45-minute boat ride to Sabtang where the famed Ivatan houses and stretches of white beaches are located. To call our ride “bumpy” is to finesse it for people who worry for your safety, like your mum. The truth is, it was so rough and scary I had to really think hard if I’d been a good person back in the real world.

The boat, it turned out was a falowa, the outriggerless kind, which heightened our brewing panic. I mean, how were we supposed to feel safe onboard a boat that tilted and heaved while still docked at the pier? It didn’t help that we had read horror stories about the ride or that our guide was giving us pointers to combat seasickness.

And so, with sole faith on the captain of the boat and muttering silent prayers, we embarked on the rocking boat and braced for the scare of our lives.

At first, everyone was bantering, making light of the situation and even gleefully cheering what looked like 15-foot high waves. But when we got to the middle of the ocean where we lost reassuring sight of land on the other side and our boat plunged and rose with every huge wave, the patter died out until nothing but the expressions in our eyes gave our emotions away. It was only the calm demeanor of the captain and our guide that slightly appeased my growing anxiety and stopped me from screaming out my prayers to every saint I knew.

Worth the trouble

Sabtang Island, as it turned out, was worth all the trouble. In fact, half its charm lies in its inaccessibilty. The residents in this idyllic spot are probably so used to seeing tourists
getting off the boat all white and petrified, they are always ready to give a warm, welcoming smile. It is in Sabtang that visitors will fully grasp what Batanes is all about. Its rugged beauty remains undisturbed and unspoiled in its own secluded spot in the universe.

As we made our way to barrio Savidug, I couldn’t help but marvel at how the people coped with the harshness of the weather in this part of the Philippines. The vast sea surrounding the place can be unforgiving as evident in the waves that leaped and smacked angrily right against the cliff s, giving us a preview of what it would be like if the weather wasn’t “good.”

The ruins near the shores of Songsong were a prime example of how vicious the weather can be. A tsunami in the 1950s wiped away the village, leaving only some roofless stone houses and remnants of what life must have been for the dwellers.

After some time traversing the steep highways of Sabtang in which traffic lights were replaced with signs like “Blow your horns!” at every turn, we finally reached barrio Savidug, then Idjang and Chavayan, where we got to immerse in the famed Ivatan culture.

They were my favorite little sleepy barrios in Batanes, looking almost like ghost towns because I couldn’t see people outside. It was as if they knew we were coming so they burrowed deeper in their homes or their foxholes. Th eir picture perfect houses were wide open and looked like living museums where everywhere you turned, they were picture perfect for a glossy magazine shoot.

Clicking like there’s no Tomorrow

Ivatan houses are made of thick lime and stone walls with cogon grass roof. What gives them distinctive charm is the Ivatan’s penchant for painting their doors in bright colors of red, yellow and blue, creating a beautiful contrast of colors and textures. Our cameras clicked like there was no tomorrow.

Back in Basco, after yet another terrifying boat ride, our excitement returned at the prospect of seeing yet another landmark in Batanes, the Fundacion Pacita in Tukon Hills. Fundacion Pacita was the poetic haven of international artist-painter Pacita Abad, sister of Rep. Butch Abad. The foundation was founded in 2005 to continue Pacita’s legacy to support the enrichment of painters and artists in the Philippines and neighboring countries. Her place was a burst of colors on top of a picturesque Tukon hills. It was a happy place where the arts, culture and nature merged seamlessly.

To get a glimpse of Batanes in all its 360-degree glory, we headed to what they call the Radar, the office of PAGASA weather station in Tukon. Views of the hills, cliff s and the seas, the rippling vast greens and the sporadic signs of civilization below are best taken from the top of the radar.

According to our guide, in spite of the overwhelming number of splendid views we had so fortunately witnessed during our three-day stay in Batanes, we had only really seen 40 percent of the place. Batanes is meant to be savored bit by bit. It seduces the senses until one cries out for more.

The trouble about visiting a place you’ve heard so much about previously is that you end up either disappointed or awed at how the press doesn’t do the real thing justice. With Batanes, it was the case of the latter for me. With its rugged beauty and natural bounty, Batanes seduces without even trying.

How to get there and where to stay

Asian Spirit flies to Basco, Batanes, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 5:00 am. For information, call +632.855.3333 or visit www.asianspirit.com.

Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant is located at National Road, Kaychanarianan, Basco, Batanes. For information, call +63.921.229.0120 or +63.915.940.4823. Or email lbroberto_seaside@yahoo.com.