WHAT’S
summer in the Philippines without fiestas, that traditional
excuse for a grand old time when the community pulls
out all stops to whoop it up. While held year-round
in local cities, towns and barangays, the fiesta seems
to hit its apogee when the sun is highest. The so-called
queen of fiestas, the Flores de Mayo literally translates
to the Flowers of May and is held in every nook and
cranny of the islands during the hottest, muggiest
month of the year. It’s telling that the Flores
de Mayo is alternately known as the Santacruzan, an
event that celebrates the discovery of the Holy Cross,
Today, the Santacruzan has evolved into a nine-day
religious affair that ends in an extravagant procession.
It is ritualistic and ostentatious, at once a blend
of Christian piety and paganism, and equal parts religious
observance and beauty contest.
While
fiestas usually revolve around religious events or
are named after patron saints, the significance of
summer and all its evident fecundity make it an apt
time to make merry. The fiesta then turns into thanksgiving
to God—and the gods—for the bounty of
harvests and good graces. Fiestas also serve as an
appeal for gifts and grace, as Obando, Bulacan’s
fertility rites, held on May 17-19, make clear. Childless
couples are made to dance and flirt as a way to entreat
the heavens to bless them with children.
According
to the late great Nick Joaquin, almost every major
fiesta in the Philippines has its roots in the pre-colonial
period. “The god Bathala created the land and
the sea and his creations have always been part of
the actual and mystical way of life in the Philippines.
The sea and the land provide food and shelter, but
the spirits of nature who dwell in these places are
not always benign and must be appeased. When the Spaniards
came they brought with them a new God and new spirits
who had to be honored too. To the adaptable Filipino,
a celebration for one god should please another as
well.”
There
are as many fiestas in the Philippines as there are
towns. Not that that’s fixed, of course. Fiestas
are constantly evolving, with new excuses to celebrate,
well, just about anything. A new development with
a smattering of homes may choose to mark themselves
as a functioning community by electing both a barangay
captain and a date for their fiesta. Baguio’s
Flower Festival held in February is a fairly recent
invention but one that’s eagerly anticipated
by tourists.
Of
course, the king of fiestas is still said to be Christmas,
when the build-up begins with first “ber”
month and won’t end until we’ve stretched
the grueling festivity to the first week of the following
year when we mark the feast of the Three Kings. Today,
that’s even stretched further in Manila. To
show you how much we love a fiesta, increasingly,
Pinoys have judiciously kept some of their holidays
trimmings beyond the Epiphany to prepare for the Chinese
New Year, a moveable feast usually held in late January
or February.
Then,
of course, comes the big Valentine ’s Day hoopla.
Not a fiesta in the strict sense of the word but neither
is Chinese New Year indigenous to us. But any old
excuse to par-tay, Philippine style, yes? Kaya piyesta
na rin ang araw ng mga puso.
Kayo,
how do you celebrate the traditional Filipino fiesta
abroad? Send your stories and pictures to
feedback@onephil.com |