I had always wanted to visit Bohol. A lesson in grade school about the diff erent anyong lupa (land forms) in the Philippines, one of which, of course, is the famed Chocolate Hills, really piqued my interest in the place. Or was it the peanut kisses that my Boholana friend used to bring me back in college whenever she came back from our semestral break that did it for me?

In later years, I would also hear about the pristine beaches and the amazing tarsiers. And now that Bohol has blossomed into one of the most-visited tourist destinations in the country, my curiosity was all the more piqued.

It was short and sweet, my fi rst trip to Bohol. It was just enough to get snapshots of what the place is all about. As teaser, really, it only succeeded in whetting my appetite and vowing a longer, more leisurely visit in the future.

Lunch on the river

My first taste of the renowned Boholano hospitality came just upon our arrival at the Tagbilaran airport. A crowd, complete with banners, leis and band music officially welcomed us.

After we settled the little confusion about our accommodations, we were led to our home away from home for the next 36 hours. The hotel was not what we expected, but for an excited fi rst-timer like me, I couldn’t care less if I slept in a makeshift tent.

Lunch was fi rst on our itinerary. And what could be better than a sumptuous feast onboard one of Loboc’s famous fl oating restaurants? Along with throngs of local and foreign tourists, we were delighted not only by a gratifying buff et that consisted of all-Pinoy delicacies down to the kakanin dessert, but also by the tireless singers who even obliged their guests with a few Korean and Spanish songs.

The cruise was short and breezy. The floating restaurant consists of two bancas, with a large wooden platform balanced in the middle. It looks like an open-air veranda, perfect for viewing the lush and magnificent landscape around the Loboc River. Even with rural scenes like housewives doing their laundry by the riverbank and children swimming, the river looks absolutely clean.

But what held my attention for the most part was the panoramic view of the river up until the end of the cruise where Busay Falls awaits. Busay Falls rises just one and a half meters but it was charming nonetheless.

An old church, a new hotel

Before we knew it, we were back in the van and on the road again to our next destination. We dropped by the Baclayon Church to marvel at one of the oldest churches in the Philippines. Located in the town of Baclayon, six kilometers from Tagbilaran City, the church dates back to the early 16th century, but retains its centuryold architectural design, making it one of the most visited places in Bohol.

We were invited by the Department of Tourism and the resort owners, Mr. and Mrs. Hans Schoof, to witness the unveiling of yet another must-visit resort in Bohol.

As if secluded from the rest of the world, an impressive fortress-like gate leads to the Peacock Garden Luxury Resort and Spa, just a 15-minute drive from the city. A short, wellmanicured driveway leads to a hilltop where the resort is located.

The hotel gave off a sense of opulence, blending European elegance and fi ne arts and Filipino warmth and allure. Owned by German restaurateur Hans Schoof and his Filipina wife, Lani, the resort is replete with the couple’s personal memorabilia.

Accommodations range from P7,000 (for de luxe rooms) to P18,000 (for the Peacock Suite) a night. Certainly, the rates speak for themselves. If self-indulgence is your thing, then the Peacock Garden is defi nitely for you. Each room off ers top-of-the-line décor and your very own scenic view of the ocean below.

“I’m a very serious person,” revealed Hans, German-born and bred, but a Boholano at heart. “If I do something, I do it right.” And it shows in the 10-hectare property, on which 30 rooms have been scheduled for completion.

“Our goal is to cater to the upscale market of Bohol,” he added. Married to a Boholana, Hans considers himself every bit a Filipino, even sharing an affi nity with our national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal. In fact, his respect and fascination of Rizal is evident in some parts of the resort.

The Old Hiedelberg Restaurant is reminiscent of 19th century Germany, where one can retrace the travels of Rizal through the various mementos bedecking the restaurant.

The magnifi cent infi nity pool overlooking the picturesque view of the ocean below, the Hemingway Lounge where one can immerse in the vast selection of fi ne wines and cigars, and the Peacock Room where either hearty breakfast or chill-out nights with friends can be had are just some of the amenities that can be enjoyed in the resort. Th e Roman Spa is set to open late this year.

“The primary reason to promote tourism in this country is to provide jobs,” said Tourism Secretary Joseph “Ace” Durano during the inauguration. “I am thankful to Hans and Lani for confi dently responding to the call for growth in tourism by embarking on an investment like this. Hundreds of Boholanos will surely benefi t from this.”

Bohol Gov. Erico Aumentado, 1st District Rep. Edgar Chato and Tagbilaran Mayor Dan Neri Lim were also among those present during the ceremony.

The hills are alive

Back in Carmen the next day, atop the view deck, I savored every second I spent gazing at the mystical hills. My heart sang. We only had 15 minutes to take in their grandeur as we we headed for Tagbilaran to catch our fl ight back to Manila.

At six in the morning, the view was still foggy, but I thought it added a lovely charm. At that moment, it looked exactly like frosty chocolate hills! I remembered the legend about the gentle giant, Agoro, who fell in love with a beautiful mortal girl named Aloya. It is said that after the girl died, the giant wept so bitterly, his tears eventually turned into what is now the Chocolate Hills, all 1,700 of them.

As we boarded the plane, I had a bittersweet feeling. Th ere was still so much I wanted to see and do in Bohol: I wanted to hold a tarsier in my hand, explore Panglao and its beautiful beaches, eat peanut kisses until my stomach hurt and see the famous Loboc Children Choir perform live.

As the plane started to take off , already I was planning the itinerary for my next trip to Bohol. And I knew I wouldn’t settle for mere glimpses.