My travel
to Coron was not a planned trip. Originally, I wanted
only to experience the SuperFerry ride but I ended
up exploring the beauty of Coron. I thought I would
leave Manila on a Friday afternoon, stay in the
SuperFerry like a cruise ship, and return to Manila
on the morning of Sunday. I panicked when I learned
that I had to disembark. I was traveling alone and
I got worried I could not get a hotel accommodation
because it was a weekend.
I
was lucky to have Chris Drew from California as
my cabinmate. It was his first time in the Philippines.
In our conversation, he told me he had made prior
reservation at SeaDive Resort where he was going
to learn scuba diving. I asked him if he could do
me a favor and advise the resort that we were together
and I needed a room. The SeaDive Resort is a five-minute
ride from the Coron port by tricycle. Chris made
a reservation for a P290-per-day room but when we
arrived at the resort, it was fully booked. Chris
was told he could only have a P980-per-day room.
He was promised that he would get a cheaper room
the following day. Lucky for me because I could
share the cost of the room which Chris agreed to.
Although the room had a queen-sized bed, Chris ordered
an extra bed for him. That was the start of a beautiful
friendship.
The
SuperFerry
The
SuperFerry is one of the largest passenger and shipping
lines in the Philippines. They have domestic trips
to about 20 ports in the country. The rates are
very affordable that’s why a lot of people
opt to travel by sea instead of air, especially
those that have to transport vegetables, fruits
and livestock. I was told rates vary all year round,
but they usually have promos for summer and Christmas,
especially for those who want to see their families.
Further, I was told that the newer ferries have
bars and discos since most of the trips take more
than 24 hours.
Ever
since I heard that the SuperFerry is a luxury liner,
I have wanted to travel on it. I think I imagined
it to be some sort of a cruise ship. On February
1, 2008, I completed my long awaited trip on the
SuperFerry traveling from Manila to Palawan. However,
I think my expectations were greater than what was
delivered. I was told I should have taken the SuperFerry
12 or SuperFerry 17. Both ships have suite rooms,
swimming pool, jacuzzis and other amenities not
found in the Voyager. I had to settle with the SuperFerry
Voyager because there was no SuperFerry 12 or 17
on the dates that I wanted to travel. Anyway, SuperFerry
Voyager was still a good ship.
Before
we could board the SuperFerry Voyager, we had to
go through a metal detector at the terminal entrance,
a baggage check, sniffing dogs, a personal pat down
inside the terminal then another personal pat down
when we boarded the ship. Upon boarding, I entered
an area resembling a hotel lobby with a check-in
counter. The bedroom had double-deck beds. The bathroom
had a combined bath and shower. The ship has a mini
mart, which sold the sort of last-minute things
people forget plus drinks and snacks. There was
also a beauty salon. I had my manicure and paid
P100, which is about what I’d pay if I went
to a salon in Makati.
The
ship has two dining areas: one for tourists and
economy class and another for those staying in the
cabin. For those staying in the cabin, the fine
dining area has waiters in uniform. Anybody could
have access to the fine dining area as long as you
have the money to pay for your order.
We
arrived at the port of Coron three hours behind
schedule. I understand there was a problem with
one of the engines so the ship had to slow down
while it was being repaired. Because of the delay,
the passengers were served free breakfast.
When
we got to the pier, there was a multitude of tricycles
waiting to whisk passengers away to their destinations.
Somebody from SeaDive was already there waiting
to pick up Chris.
Coron,
Palawan: A travelers’ haven
Coron
is a small fishing village located southeast of
the island of Busuanga, Palawan and opposite the
island of Coron – the ancestral homeland of
the Tagbanuas. It is part of the Calamian Group
of Islands and located southwest of Mindoro Island.
I
was told that on September 24, 1944, this island
was a witness to the US Navy’s aerial bombardment
of the Japanese cargo and support vessels seeking
shelter in its turquoise waters. The waters of Coron
have become a sanctuary for a variety of marine
creatures that call these wrecks their home.
If
you’re into diving, Coron is one hot spot
for you. The main attractions are WWII Japanese
shipwrecks, night dives, Nitrox, etc. SeaDive Resort
caters to beginners as well as advanced divers.
It is well equipped and they have a decompression
tank. Their in-house divers are professional, courteous
and helpful. I met them with Chris who was very
eager to start his scuba diving lessons. Food wise,
SeaDive is OK if you’re not particular; but
if you really want a fabulous meal, go to Bruno’s
restaurant (Swiss Chef), which is a five-minute
walk from SeaDive. SeaDive has rooms for all types
of budgets ranging from a four-bed dormitory with
an electric fan to full-on air-conditioned room
with a queen-sized bed with aircon. They offer hot
and cold showers.
SeaDive
Resort has a great view of Coron bay and the islands.
It is situated near the pier and the market and
there are many stores nearby. Their restaurant is
very nice, breezy and relaxing. Our room on the
third floor opened to a commanding view of the sea
and other islands in the vicinity. If you are after
convenience or want a place with a view of the sea,
SeaDive Resort is the best place to stay.
Dining
with the mermaids
After
checking-in at the SeaDive resort, Chris and I did
not waste our time. Armed with my camera, we explored
the island. It’s a pleasure to walk around
the town, with its narrow streets, several inns
and business establishments, dive centers and tricycles.
After a long walk, we had lunch at the La Sirenetta,
a fine dining restaurant in the middle of the sea
similar to the Harbor View in Manila Bay. Our waiter
told us the story about the La Sirenetta.
According
to our waiter, the Tagbanua people of Coron Island
have many interesting tales in their folklore of
beautiful mermaids that inhabit the lakes and tropical
lagoons of the spectacularly beautiful nearby island.
The restaurant’s theme is loosely based on
one such story about young mermaids who swim during
the night to the surrounding islands to look for
partners among the population of young fishermen
who live on the white sand beaches along the ocean’s
edge.
The
mermaids must find their partners only during nighttime
and return them to their homes before sunrise. According
to the story, the young fishermen would not have
any recollection of the night’s events, only
a severe headache. If the mermaids are touched by
the first rays of the morning sunshine, they are
immediately turned into coral and sink to the depths
of the ocean. During the next full moon, they resurface
to join the normal island population as real people,
but are never allowed to return to their lives in
the ocean as mermaids.
La
Sirenetta means “young mermaids” in
Italian, just as the “sirena” in Filipino
and Spanish refer to mermaids of no particular age.
The story offers an insight into local folklore
and becomes part of the Palawan experience.
Island
hopping
If
you’re not a diver like me, one of the activities
you can do is island-hop. You can snorkel and kayak.
And Coron has very clear blue waters where one does
not need to dive deep to get a clear view of the
corals. That’s what Chris and I did after
lunch.
Coron
has many beautiful islands and beaches. We visited
Kayangan, Siete Pecados, Baracuda, and Twin Lagoon.
There are cathedral shapes, black marble and limestone
cliffs, white-sand beaches, lagoons, caves and unpolluted
waters. The islands are recommended for swimmers,
divers, snorkelers, hiders and just plain lovers
of sun and sea.
Time
to be holy
I
woke up the following day feeling very relaxed.
I had my breakfast at the SeaDive resort alone because
Chris started his scuba diving lessons. After breakfast,
I started looking for a church nearby. It was time
to be holy. I attended the Sunday service at Coron’s
Baptist Church. There I met Dr. Ivy Mendenilla-Sta.
Cruz, a dentist. I joined Ivy and her friend, Dr.
Joseph Tradio, another dentist, for lunch at SeaDive.
Before I knew it, we were talking like old friends.
Bonding agad ang dating. Ivy and Joseph invited
me to visit Maguinit. It is a place to soak your
muscles in the hot springs after a day’s dive
or walk – ready for tomorrow’s activities.
Unfortunately, I did not have another day to enjoy
the islands of Coron. It was time to go back home.
Ivy
was going back to Manila too for her dental practice.
We took the same SuperFerry Voyager. There we met
another friend of Ivy, Dr. Charles Mercado, a practicing
physician at the Coron General Hospital. He was
bound for Manila to relax and study for his exams
that would enable him to do his residency in the
United States. Since I do not have any company in
my condo at the Baywatch Tower, I invited Charles
to stay with me. He kept me company until the day
I left for Seattle.
In
my short stay in Coron, Palawan, I gained the friendship
of several people particularly Dr. Joseph Travio,
Dr. Ivy Mendenilla-Sta. Cruz, and Dr. Charles Mercado.
I am sure our friendship will not stop here. We
will be friends forever.
There
are many places in Palawan that I would like to
discover, one of them is El Nido. I was told that
in the beautiful town of El Nido faces Biscuit Bay,
Northern Palawan, where the birds build nests (with
their saliva) for their young in the black marble
and limestone cliffs within and near the town. Those
nests are gathered by skilled natives who scale
the cliffs, a dangerous activity which does not
faze them. And the nests are made into the delectable
Nido soup (now I know).
On
my next travel to the Philippines, I will visit
this eco-destination and spend one week there. Yes,
I left my heart in Coron, Palawan.