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I left my heart in Coron, Palawan
 
 
IF you are traveling to the Philippines on very tight schedule like I usually do, I would recommend a weekend getaway to Coron, Palawan. Kabayan, hataw sa ganda ang Coron na nagdulot sa akin ng ibayong kaligayahan.

My travel to Coron was not a planned trip. Originally, I wanted only to experience the SuperFerry ride but I ended up exploring the beauty of Coron. I thought I would leave Manila on a Friday afternoon, stay in the SuperFerry like a cruise ship, and return to Manila on the morning of Sunday. I panicked when I learned that I had to disembark. I was traveling alone and I got worried I could not get a hotel accommodation because it was a weekend.

I was lucky to have Chris Drew from California as my cabinmate. It was his first time in the Philippines. In our conversation, he told me he had made prior reservation at SeaDive Resort where he was going to learn scuba diving. I asked him if he could do me a favor and advise the resort that we were together and I needed a room. The SeaDive Resort is a five-minute ride from the Coron port by tricycle. Chris made a reservation for a P290-per-day room but when we arrived at the resort, it was fully booked. Chris was told he could only have a P980-per-day room. He was promised that he would get a cheaper room the following day. Lucky for me because I could share the cost of the room which Chris agreed to. Although the room had a queen-sized bed, Chris ordered an extra bed for him. That was the start of a beautiful friendship.

The SuperFerry

The SuperFerry is one of the largest passenger and shipping lines in the Philippines. They have domestic trips to about 20 ports in the country. The rates are very affordable that’s why a lot of people opt to travel by sea instead of air, especially those that have to transport vegetables, fruits and livestock. I was told rates vary all year round, but they usually have promos for summer and Christmas, especially for those who want to see their families. Further, I was told that the newer ferries have bars and discos since most of the trips take more than 24 hours.

Ever since I heard that the SuperFerry is a luxury liner, I have wanted to travel on it. I think I imagined it to be some sort of a cruise ship. On February 1, 2008, I completed my long awaited trip on the SuperFerry traveling from Manila to Palawan. However, I think my expectations were greater than what was delivered. I was told I should have taken the SuperFerry 12 or SuperFerry 17. Both ships have suite rooms, swimming pool, jacuzzis and other amenities not found in the Voyager. I had to settle with the SuperFerry Voyager because there was no SuperFerry 12 or 17 on the dates that I wanted to travel. Anyway, SuperFerry Voyager was still a good ship.

Before we could board the SuperFerry Voyager, we had to go through a metal detector at the terminal entrance, a baggage check, sniffing dogs, a personal pat down inside the terminal then another personal pat down when we boarded the ship. Upon boarding, I entered an area resembling a hotel lobby with a check-in counter. The bedroom had double-deck beds. The bathroom had a combined bath and shower. The ship has a mini mart, which sold the sort of last-minute things people forget plus drinks and snacks. There was also a beauty salon. I had my manicure and paid P100, which is about what I’d pay if I went to a salon in Makati.

The ship has two dining areas: one for tourists and economy class and another for those staying in the cabin. For those staying in the cabin, the fine dining area has waiters in uniform. Anybody could have access to the fine dining area as long as you have the money to pay for your order.

We arrived at the port of Coron three hours behind schedule. I understand there was a problem with one of the engines so the ship had to slow down while it was being repaired. Because of the delay, the passengers were served free breakfast.

When we got to the pier, there was a multitude of tricycles waiting to whisk passengers away to their destinations. Somebody from SeaDive was already there waiting to pick up Chris.

Coron, Palawan: A travelers’ haven

Coron is a small fishing village located southeast of the island of Busuanga, Palawan and opposite the island of Coron – the ancestral homeland of the Tagbanuas. It is part of the Calamian Group of Islands and located southwest of Mindoro Island.

I was told that on September 24, 1944, this island was a witness to the US Navy’s aerial bombardment of the Japanese cargo and support vessels seeking shelter in its turquoise waters. The waters of Coron have become a sanctuary for a variety of marine creatures that call these wrecks their home.

If you’re into diving, Coron is one hot spot for you. The main attractions are WWII Japanese shipwrecks, night dives, Nitrox, etc. SeaDive Resort caters to beginners as well as advanced divers. It is well equipped and they have a decompression tank. Their in-house divers are professional, courteous and helpful. I met them with Chris who was very eager to start his scuba diving lessons. Food wise, SeaDive is OK if you’re not particular; but if you really want a fabulous meal, go to Bruno’s restaurant (Swiss Chef), which is a five-minute walk from SeaDive. SeaDive has rooms for all types of budgets ranging from a four-bed dormitory with an electric fan to full-on air-conditioned room with a queen-sized bed with aircon. They offer hot and cold showers.

SeaDive Resort has a great view of Coron bay and the islands. It is situated near the pier and the market and there are many stores nearby. Their restaurant is very nice, breezy and relaxing. Our room on the third floor opened to a commanding view of the sea and other islands in the vicinity. If you are after convenience or want a place with a view of the sea, SeaDive Resort is the best place to stay.

Dining with the mermaids

After checking-in at the SeaDive resort, Chris and I did not waste our time. Armed with my camera, we explored the island. It’s a pleasure to walk around the town, with its narrow streets, several inns and business establishments, dive centers and tricycles. After a long walk, we had lunch at the La Sirenetta, a fine dining restaurant in the middle of the sea similar to the Harbor View in Manila Bay. Our waiter told us the story about the La Sirenetta.

According to our waiter, the Tagbanua people of Coron Island have many interesting tales in their folklore of beautiful mermaids that inhabit the lakes and tropical lagoons of the spectacularly beautiful nearby island. The restaurant’s theme is loosely based on one such story about young mermaids who swim during the night to the surrounding islands to look for partners among the population of young fishermen who live on the white sand beaches along the ocean’s edge.

The mermaids must find their partners only during nighttime and return them to their homes before sunrise. According to the story, the young fishermen would not have any recollection of the night’s events, only a severe headache. If the mermaids are touched by the first rays of the morning sunshine, they are immediately turned into coral and sink to the depths of the ocean. During the next full moon, they resurface to join the normal island population as real people, but are never allowed to return to their lives in the ocean as mermaids.

La Sirenetta means “young mermaids” in Italian, just as the “sirena” in Filipino and Spanish refer to mermaids of no particular age. The story offers an insight into local folklore and becomes part of the Palawan experience.

Island hopping

If you’re not a diver like me, one of the activities you can do is island-hop. You can snorkel and kayak. And Coron has very clear blue waters where one does not need to dive deep to get a clear view of the corals. That’s what Chris and I did after lunch.

Coron has many beautiful islands and beaches. We visited Kayangan, Siete Pecados, Baracuda, and Twin Lagoon. There are cathedral shapes, black marble and limestone cliffs, white-sand beaches, lagoons, caves and unpolluted waters. The islands are recommended for swimmers, divers, snorkelers, hiders and just plain lovers of sun and sea.

Time to be holy

I woke up the following day feeling very relaxed. I had my breakfast at the SeaDive resort alone because Chris started his scuba diving lessons. After breakfast, I started looking for a church nearby. It was time to be holy. I attended the Sunday service at Coron’s Baptist Church. There I met Dr. Ivy Mendenilla-Sta. Cruz, a dentist. I joined Ivy and her friend, Dr. Joseph Tradio, another dentist, for lunch at SeaDive. Before I knew it, we were talking like old friends. Bonding agad ang dating. Ivy and Joseph invited me to visit Maguinit. It is a place to soak your muscles in the hot springs after a day’s dive or walk – ready for tomorrow’s activities. Unfortunately, I did not have another day to enjoy the islands of Coron. It was time to go back home.

Ivy was going back to Manila too for her dental practice. We took the same SuperFerry Voyager. There we met another friend of Ivy, Dr. Charles Mercado, a practicing physician at the Coron General Hospital. He was bound for Manila to relax and study for his exams that would enable him to do his residency in the United States. Since I do not have any company in my condo at the Baywatch Tower, I invited Charles to stay with me. He kept me company until the day I left for Seattle.

In my short stay in Coron, Palawan, I gained the friendship of several people particularly Dr. Joseph Travio, Dr. Ivy Mendenilla-Sta. Cruz, and Dr. Charles Mercado. I am sure our friendship will not stop here. We will be friends forever.

There are many places in Palawan that I would like to discover, one of them is El Nido. I was told that in the beautiful town of El Nido faces Biscuit Bay, Northern Palawan, where the birds build nests (with their saliva) for their young in the black marble and limestone cliffs within and near the town. Those nests are gathered by skilled natives who scale the cliffs, a dangerous activity which does not faze them. And the nests are made into the delectable Nido soup (now I know).

On my next travel to the Philippines, I will visit this eco-destination and spend one week there. Yes, I left my heart in Coron, Palawan.

 

 
 
 
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