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Biking
in Batanes |
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THE
northernmost inhabited islands in the Philippines
belong to Batanes. The province’s reputation
(arguable, to some) of being a typhoon magnet, the
limited options of getting there (only Asian Spirit
flies from Manila to the capital, Basco, three times
a week; the 8-seater planes of Chemtrad and Pacific
Air fly from Tuguegarao), and the prohibitive costs
of transportation (P10,600 roundtrip on Asian Spirit),
has left the islands of Batanes essentially untouched
by commercialism brought about by tourism.
Its
local people, the Ivatans, have maintained their warmth
and would greet visitors not as suspicious strangers
or tourists to be taken advantage of, but as friends
from afar. They are friendly on the road and would
always look one in the eye, ready with a nod and a
smile.
Many a tale have been told of stranded and penniless
(automated teller machines were not installed in Basco
until recently) tourists, who were sheltered, clothed
and fed by hospitable Ivatans, for nothing but gratitude.
On two wheels |
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The
rugged and unspoiled beauty of the islands and the
safety of its local society are irresistible lures
to my friend Michelle and me, a couple of girls on
their mountainbikes.
The best way of exploring Batanes is on a bicycle.
Hiking is too taxing. Consider that in the main island
of Batan, the distance from Basco to the last town,
Imnajbu, is roughly 25kms along the coastal road.
Riding on a rented motorized vehicle somehow diminishes
the experience. You can’t help but go too fast.
On a bike however, you can proceed at your own pace,
drink in the spectacular views, and stop as often
as you like to take pictures or talk to passing locals.
General fitness is required to tackle the rolling
uphills and downhills of riding. All the roads in
Batan are cemented, so slick tires are okay. But the
nearby island of Sabtang is a different story. Be
prepared for mud, sand, ground limestone, steep ascents
and fast descents.
Itinerary |
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Michelle
and I rode everyday, following this itinerary (distances
are approximates):
DAY
1 Batan, the main island
1. Arrive in Basco 12nn
2. Ride Basco to Valugan, east coast (5kms)
3. Ride Valugan to Chadpidan, west coast (3kms)
4. Back to Basco
DAY 2 Batan, main island
1. Ride Basco to Imnajbu, passing through Mahatao,
San Vicente, Ivana, Uyugan and Itbud (25kms)
2. Back to Basco
DAY 3 Batan, main island
1. Ride to Mahatao town (5kms), enter Marlboro Country
(10kms), exit Imnajbu town, ride back to Basco
(25kms)
DAY 4 Sabtang, second major island
1. Ride to San Vicente (14 kms) to board the ferry
crossing to Sabtang
2. From Sabtang Centro, ride to Savidug (3kms) and
Chavayan (6kms)
3. Back to Centro, spend the night
DAY 5 Sabtang, second major island
1. Ride Centro to Nakanmuan (11kms) and Sumnanga (3kms)
2. Back to Centro to catch the ferry back to San Vicente
3. Ride San Vicente to Basco
DAY 6 Batan, main island
1. Ride to Tukon, where the PAG-ASA weather station
is found (3kms)
2. Back to Basco via Valugan (6kms)
3. Catch the noon flight back to Manila |
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Transportation
Asian Spirit flies direct from Manila to Basco, Mon-Wed-Fri
9:00-10:40AM. Return flights on the same days at 11:00AM-12:50PM.
For reservations call (+63 2) 855-3333.
Bikes can be checked in without disassembling; just
remove the air from the tires. The airline charges
extra for baggage in excess of 10kgs.
The boat to Sabtang charges P40/passenger and P10/bike.
Boat schedules are irregular and depends on the weather.
The best boat captain in the island is reportedly
the one at the helm of Fran-tasy. To check Fran-tasy’s
schedule, contact Ronald Alasco (+63 915) 621-9098.
Lodging
For places to stay, rates and contact numbers, check
out http://www.batanesinteractive.net/hotels.asp.
For homestays, contact Girly Fajardo at (+63 920)
568-3391. |
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| Rochelle
Cuyco, who rides her mountain bike on weekends, works
for GMA Pinoy TV. |
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